New Cat Checklist: First-Week Shopping List and Home Setup

Cats handle change best when their new territory starts small and predictable. Instead of giving a new cat the run of the house on day one, most cats do better starting in one quiet room with everything they need. Here's what to buy, how to set up a safe room, and how to introduce your cat to the rest of the household without a rough start.

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Before Your Cat Comes Home

Ask the shelter, rescue, or previous owner:

• What food and litter is the cat using? Matching both for the first week cuts down on stress and litter box problems.
• What vaccines, testing, and parasite treatments has the cat had? Get copies of the records.
• Is the cat microchipped? Get the number and update the registration to your name.
• How does the cat do with dogs, other cats, and kids? Any history is useful.

Schedule a vet visit for the first week or two. If you have other cats, ask your veterinarian whether the new cat should be examined before the cats share space.

First-Week Shopping List

Litter setup

• Litter box (or several, see the rules of thumb below)
• The same type of litter the cat already uses
• Litter scoop
• Enzymatic cleaner for accidents

Food and water

• The food your cat currently eats
• Shallow, wide food dish (many cats dislike their whiskers brushing the sides)
• Water bowl, or a water fountain if your cat seems to like running water

Scratching and climbing

• At least one tall, sturdy vertical scratching post
• A horizontal scratcher (cardboard or sisal)
• A cat tree or wall perch for height

Comfort and hiding

• A covered bed or cat cave
• A cardboard box with a cutout entrance (simple and effective)
• Soft blankets that can be washed

Play and enrichment

• Wand toy, which is the best way to play with a shy cat from a distance
• Small toys to bat around
• A puzzle feeder or treat toy

Care and safety

• Hard-sided carrier (for vet visits and emergencies)
• Breakaway collar with an ID tag, if your cat will wear one
• Brush or comb suited to the coat
• Cat nail clippers
• Pet-safe cat toothbrush and toothpaste

Litter Box Rules of Thumb

Litter box problems are one of the most common reasons cats get rehomed, and many come down to setup.

Rule of thumb	Why it matters
One box per cat, plus one	Gives each cat options and reduces guarding in multi-cat homes
Box about 1.5 times the cat's body length (nose to base of tail)	Lets the cat turn, dig, and squat comfortably. Many standard boxes are too small for adult cats.
Uncovered boxes are often preferred	Covered boxes trap odor inside, where the cat's sensitive nose is
Low entry for kittens, seniors, and stiff cats	Makes the box easy to step into
About 2–3 inches of unscented litter	Most cats prefer a fine, soft, unscented texture
Scoop at least once a day	Cats may avoid a dirty box
Quiet location, away from food and water	Cats don't like eating near where they go
Spread boxes out, one per floor in multi-level homes	Boxes side by side count as one big box to a cat

If your cat stops using the box, strains, goes often, or seems uncomfortable, call your veterinarian promptly. Litter box changes can signal a medical issue, and some urinary problems are urgent, especially in male cats.

Setting Up a Safe Room

A safe room is a quiet, closable space like a spare bedroom, office, or large bathroom where your new cat lives for the first several days or longer.

What goes in the safe room

• Litter box on one side
• Food and water on the opposite side
• A hiding spot (box, covered bed, or the carrier with the door off)
• A scratching post
• Something to climb, if there's room
• A worn T-shirt or blanket with your scent

Prep the room

• Block access under beds and inside box springs or recliners, where a scared cat can get stuck or be hard to reach
• Secure window screens
• Remove string, hair ties, rubber bands, and small objects
• Tuck away cords and move toxic plants (ask your veterinarian which plants to avoid, since lilies are especially dangerous to cats)

Let the cat set the pace

Open the carrier and let your cat come out on their own. Sit quietly, read or work in the room, and let your cat approach you. Hiding for the first day or two, or longer for shy cats, is normal. Make sure your cat is eating, drinking, and using the box. If your cat hasn't eaten in about a day, call your veterinarian.

Why Hiding Spots Matter

Cats feel safer when they can watch unseen, so hiding spots help a new cat come out sooner. Good options:

• Cardboard boxes or covered beds
• A blanket draped over a chair
• Elevated shelves or the top of a cat tree

Don't pull a hiding cat out. Coax them with a wand toy or treats instead.

Expanding Territory

Once your cat is eating normally, using the box, and approaching you with confidence, start opening up the house:

• Let them explore one new room at a time, with the safe room door open so they can retreat
• Keep the original litter box in place during the transition
• Add a second litter box in the new area before moving the first

Introducing a New Cat to Other Pets

Slow introductions prevent most fights. Rushing them is the most common mistake.

Step-by-step

• Scent first. Swap bedding between pets and rub a soft cloth on each pet's cheeks, then let the other pet sniff it.
• Feed on opposite sides of a closed door. Gradually move the bowls closer together over several days.
• Swap spaces. Let the new cat explore the house while the resident pet stays in the safe room.
• Visual contact through a barrier. Use a baby gate (stacked if needed) or a cracked door with a doorstop.
• Short supervised visits. Keep them calm, with treats and play, and end before anyone gets stressed.
• Gradually increase time together.

With dogs

Keep the dog leashed for early meetings, and reward calm behavior. Make sure the cat always has an escape route to high perches or a gated room the dog can't enter. Some dogs with a strong chase drive may need professional help, so a certified trainer or behaviorist is worth contacting if the dog fixates.

Signs to slow down

Hissing, swatting, flattened ears, a puffed tail, or extra hiding mean go back a step. Introductions can take a few days or several weeks.

FAQ

How many litter boxes do I need for one cat?

The common rule of thumb is one per cat plus one, so two boxes for a single cat. Two boxes in different spots gives your cat a backup if one is dirty or a noise scares them away from it.

How long should my new cat stay in the safe room?

It depends on the cat. Some confident cats are ready in a few days, and shy cats may need a couple of weeks. Watch for relaxed body language, normal eating, and curiosity about the door.

Can I put the litter box in a covered cabinet?

Some cats accept litter box furniture, but many prefer an open box with a clear view. If you use one, make sure it's large enough, scooped daily, and that your cat is actually using it.

Should I keep my new cat indoors?

Many shelters and veterinarians recommend keeping a new cat indoors, at least while they settle in, and many owners keep cats indoors permanently for safety. Talk with your veterinarian about what makes sense where you live.