New Puppy Checklist: Setting Up Your Home for the First Week

The first week with a puppy goes much better when the house is ready before the puppy walks in. That means having supplies set up, hazards out of reach, and a rough daily schedule planned. This checklist walks through what to buy, how to puppy-proof, how to set up a crate, and what to ask at the first vet visit.

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Before Your Puppy Comes Home

Before you shop, ask the breeder, shelter, or rescue a few questions:

What food is the puppy eating now? Have the same food on hand for the first days. If you plan to switch foods, ask your veterinarian how and when.
What vaccines and deworming has the puppy had? Get copies of the records.
Is the puppy microchipped? If so, get the chip number so you can register it in your name.
What's the current routine? Meal times, potty habits, and where the puppy sleeps.

Also book a vet appointment for the first few days after pickup. Many practices fill up weeks out.

The Supplies Checklist

Eating and drinking

Food the puppy already eats (enough for at least two weeks)
Food bowl and water bowl. Stainless steel or ceramic are easy to clean.
Measuring cup for consistent portions
Airtight food storage container
Small, soft training treats

Sleeping and confinement

Crate sized for your puppy's adult size, with a divider
Washable crate pad or old blankets (skip expensive bedding until chewing settles down)
Baby gates or an exercise pen
Crate cover or a light sheet, if your puppy settles better in a den-like space

Walking and ID

Adjustable flat collar or harness
ID tag with your phone number
6-foot standard leash. Retractable leashes make training harder.
Poop bags and a holder

Cleaning and potty training

Enzymatic cleaner made for pet accidents (regular cleaners leave odors that bring puppies back to the same spot)
Paper towels and old towels
Potty pads, only if you're using them on purpose (for example, apartment living)

Chewing and enrichment

Several chew toys in different textures
A food-dispensing or stuffable toy
A soft toy for comfort
A puzzle feeder for mental exercise once your puppy gets older

Grooming basics

Brush suited to the coat type
Puppy-safe nail clippers or a grinder
Dog toothbrush and dog toothpaste (never human toothpaste)
Gentle dog shampoo

Puppy-Proofing, Room by Room

Get down on your hands and knees and look at each room from puppy height. Anything you can reach, your puppy can chew.

Area	Common hazards	What to do
Living room	Cords, chargers, remotes, houseplants, small objects	Bundle or cover cords, lift plants, clear low shelves
Kitchen	Trash, food scraps, cleaning supplies, dropped food	Use a lidded or cabinet trash can, add child locks to low cabinets
Bathroom	Medications, razors, toilet water, hair ties	Close the door, keep the lid down, store meds high
Bedroom	Socks, shoes, jewelry, phone chargers	Use a laundry hamper with a lid, keep closet doors shut
Garage	Antifreeze, rodent bait, fertilizer, tools	Keep the puppy out entirely, store chemicals high and sealed
Yard	Gaps in fencing, pools, toxic plants, snail bait	Walk the fence line, fence off the pool, check plants

Some common foods and plants are toxic to dogs. Ask your veterinarian for a list, and keep the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center number and your nearest emergency vet clinic number on your fridge.

Setting Up the Crate

A crate isn't a punishment. Introduced well, it becomes a quiet, safe spot your puppy chooses on their own.

Size it right

Your puppy should be able to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably. If the crate is much bigger than that, a puppy may use one end as a bathroom. A divider lets you buy for adult size and expand the space as your puppy grows.

Pick the location

Put the crate where people actually spend time, like a corner of the living room. At night, many owners keep it in or next to the bedroom for the first few weeks so they can hear when the puppy needs to go out.

Make it inviting

Toss treats inside and let your puppy go in and out freely
Feed meals in or near the crate
Add a safe chew toy
Keep the first closed-door sessions short, and stay nearby

What not to do

Don't use the crate as punishment
Don't leave a young puppy crated longer than they can hold their bladder
Don't put collars with dangling tags on inside the crate

Your First Vet Visit: Questions to Ask

Bring the breeder or shelter records and a fresh stool sample if the clinic asks for one. Questions worth asking:

What vaccine schedule do you recommend for my puppy, and when is each next appointment?
When is it safe to go to parks, puppy classes, and places other dogs visit?
What parasite prevention does my puppy need (fleas, ticks, heartworm, intestinal worms), and on what schedule?
How much and how often should my puppy eat, and when should I switch to adult food?
When should we talk about spay or neuter timing?
Is the microchip reading correctly, and how do I register it in my name?
What signs mean I should call you or go to an emergency clinic?
Do you recommend pet insurance or a wellness plan, and what's the practical difference?

A Simple First-Week Routine

Puppies thrive on predictability. Here's an example structure you can adjust to your schedule:

Wake up: Straight outside to the same potty spot
Breakfast: Then outside again within 15–30 minutes
Play and training: Short sessions of 3–5 minutes (name recognition, "sit," hand targeting)
Nap: In the crate or pen. Young puppies sleep a lot.
Potty breaks: After every nap, meal, and play session, and every hour or two while awake
Lunch and afternoon: Same pattern of meals, potty breaks, play, and naps
Dinner: Early enough to leave time for a last potty trip
Wind down: Calm chew time, then a final trip outside
Night: Crate. Expect one or more overnight potty trips at first.

Socialization basics

The early weeks are an important window for gentle exposure to new sights, sounds, surfaces, and people. Keep it positive and low-pressure. Ask your veterinarian how to socialize safely before vaccines are complete, such as carrying your puppy in public or inviting healthy, vaccinated dogs over.

Common First-Week Mistakes

Too much freedom too fast. Use gates and pens, and expand access gradually.
Punishing accidents. It teaches puppies to hide when they go. Clean up and take them out more often.
Overdoing it. Lots of visitors and outings can overwhelm a new puppy.
Inconsistent rules. Agree as a household on rules like couch access and bedroom access.

FAQ

How soon should I take my new puppy to the vet?

Most vets recommend a visit within the first few days of bringing a puppy home. It establishes care, keeps the vaccine schedule on track, and catches any early concerns. Call your vet's office for their recommendation.

Should my puppy sleep in my bedroom?

Many owners find it easier at first. You can hear when the puppy needs to go out, and the puppy settles faster with you nearby. You can move the crate gradually later if you'd prefer.

How long can a puppy stay in a crate?

It depends on age and bladder control, and young puppies need frequent breaks. Ask your veterinarian or a certified trainer for guidance based on your puppy's age.

Can I change my puppy's food right away?

It's usually best to keep the same food for the first stretch, since the move itself is stressful. Ask your veterinarian before switching, and about how gradually to make the change.